FAQs

Knit a 3-4” square section with your loom and yarn, measure one inch of your knitting (horizonally) to determine how many stitches there are per inch. Do the same thing to the amount of rows (vertically) to determine how many rows per inch of knitting. This is your gauge or tightness of stitches.  It will display as Xsts and Zrows=1(or 2) inches of knitting.

A Knitting Board, also referred to as a long loom, knitting rake, or frame, is a hand knitting tool that creates a double knit, a two sided fabric that is complete on both sides. This is great when working with afghan or other items where you want to see the color design on both sides. No curling edges that need blocking.

Double knitting creates a 2 sided fabric. Instead of working the adjacent peg, like in single knitting, you work the peg across the loom, on the other rail or board. 2 pegs create one stitch.

The thickness of the fabric depends on several options. First is the yarn that is being used, and then, how you set the spacers on the knitting board. The spacing between the 2 rails or boards determines the size of your gauge, or stitches. You can create a light, open weave or very bulky effect with the thickness of yarn and space between the boards.

You can do most anything as far as shaping your pieces, just as you would with needle knitting.  It involves the process of increase and decrease and a variety of stitch patterns. These are usually explained in the pattern.

The gauge is determined by 3 things, the yarn, the space between the pegs and the space between the board rails, the larger the space the larger your stitch. It is measured the same as when single knitting.

This happens when the end stitches are larger at one end from the other.  This is very easy to correct. When you hook your stitches over, be sure to work from one end towards the center of the knitting, and then change to the other end and knit towards the center. Be sure to loop over all the stitches. Do the same thing to the other board. Be sure to vary the spot that you change direction so that you do not create loose stitches in center. The center does not need to be exact so vary it with each new row.

Many yarns and types work great on the Knitting Board. But it is preferable to use a single ply or a yarn where the plies do not separate easily. All weights will work and create many different effects in the knitting. If you are not following a pattern with the suggested yarn or a close match, you may want to do a test swatch of your yarn to be sure you will get the desired finished look and size for your knitting.

When working with Sock Looms there are 3 different sizes depending on the tightness of stitch you would like to create or the gauge of your knitting, or yarn used.

The Sock Loom EFG is an extra fine gauge loom that knits with a gauge of approx 8 or 9 stitches per inch, very tight knit, 3/16” between pegs.  Use fine/fingering sock yarn.

The Sock Loom Original, a fine gauge loom knits with a gauge of approx 7 stitches per inch, 5/8” spacing between pegs.  Use DK weight sock yarn.

The Sock Loom 2, a regular gauge loom, knits with a gauge of approx 5 stitches per inch.  Use worsted weight sock yarn.

With the 3 adjustable socklooms you can make any size sock, up to a men’s large sock, baby/preemie hats, and small little tubular projects. But you can also knit flat items such as scarves. To knit a flat panel on the loom, simply do not knit in a circle, but instead knit in one direction, and when you reach your starting peg, reverse and knit in opposite direction so that your first and last peg are never attached.

There are many great sources for patterns available. Patterns are usually written for specific looms and there are many differences in looms created by the various manufacturers. You want to check the spacing between the pegs and the spacing of the pegs to the edge of the loom. If these measurements are equal and there are enough pegs to complete your sock, then the patterns can be used on your sock loom.

The peg extenders can be used to add more pegs to your knitting and create a wider piece.  They can also be used to create a square or rectangular shape to your loom.  This allows you to convert your knitting loom or board into a weaving loom. To use the extenders, simply remove wingnuts and bolts, and add the extenders to your loom using same wing nuts. Looms with metal pins use extenders with no added pins, as these looms work in double knit.  Instructions are available on this website.

They can be placed over the needles of the knitting loom or board. This is especially important when you are working on a project and need to set it aside. The cover will prevent the knitting from getting hung up on the needles and snagging.

Yes, but different weights and textures will change the look and size of the knitting. Try to choose a yarn of similar loftiness and thickness. If in doubt, do a test swatch.

You can do many stitches on the board and they are demonstrated on the How-to section of this site, and also on the DVDs and Basic Knitting Board Book.

The spacing is important in patterns. If the spacing between the pins and the boards are the same, then the pattern will work on your other loom. Also be sure that the loom has the needed amount of pins to complete the project.

Yes, you can. This subject has been covered very well in our discussion group and that would be a wonderful source of direction for you. But basically, you will use the needle pattern for the shape of the piece and the style. You will want to use stitches and techniques learned for the knitting board. So, you may want to be very familiar with pattern terminology of needle knitting as well as fairly experienced with your knitting board.

The width is determined by the adjustable spacer and the type of yarn you are using. If you open up the spacer to 2cm or 3cm on your Knitting Board and use stretchy yarn you can get a piece much wider than the loom you are working with. For example on the 28″ Knitting Board you can get a piece 45″ wide by opening up the loom to 3cm spacing.

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