Happy Fall! 😀

Last October, our Stitchology column focused on making circles using the Puff Stitch to resemble those rotund symbols of autumn…pumpkins!  I thought it would be fitting to work up another square this year that brings those big orange gourds to mind, but rather than raising the center, we’d raise the outline of the circles—meet the Raised Circles Stitch.  It is an exercise in cable making, chart reading, and row counting…but the results are definitely worth it! This stitch could also be used to simulate candle flames or ornaments for the holidays, or as my daughter exclaimed when she first saw the square: pieces of eight! 😉

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. 😉  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Raised Circles Square

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in rust)

Notions: Loom tool, cable needle, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 16—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.  The border edges may need to also be increased to coordinate with the number of increased Repeating Pattern Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The cables in this pattern involve trading the loops of 3 pegs in the correct order. They are all worked essentially the same, no matter the direction of knitting.  They are worked as follows:

*Note: It helps to knit the row before the cable row just a tad looser than normal to aid the cable stitches in stretching to their new places.

[2/1RC]:  Worked over 3 pegs:

• Lift the loop from the right peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— RC= right peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the left of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the right.
  • If working from the R-L:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
  • If working from the L-R:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty left peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the right. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

[2/1LC]: Worked over 3 pegs:

• Lift the loop from the left peg of the designated cable pegs and place it on the cable needle.  (*note: this is easy to remember— LC= left peg first)
• Move the two stitches on the right of the designated cable pegs over one peg to the left.
  • If working from the R-L:  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it. Knit the two stitches on the left. Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.
  • If working from the L-R:  Knit the two stitches you’ve just moved.  Place the stitch from the cable needle onto the now empty right peg and knit it.  Pull out any slack from all three sts before moving on.

Repeating Pattern Rows

Here are the Repeating Pattern Rows for the stitch itself, based on the chart above:

(*Note: Don’t let the abbreviations intimidate you!  It really is easy once you understand how to work each of the cables as described above.  I promise! 🙂  )

Row 1:  k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 2: k16.

Row 3: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 4: k16.

Row 5: p2, k12, p2.

Row 6: 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC.

Row 7: k16.

Row 8: k1, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k1.

Row 9: k16.

Row 10: k6, p4, k6.

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. 😉

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 38 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Row 1: p38.

Row 2: k38.

Row 3: p38.

Row 4: k38.

Main Pattern Rows

Row 5: p3, k6, p4, k12, p4, k6, p3.

Row 6:  k4, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k2, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 7: p3, k32, p3.

Row 8: k3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 9: p3, k32, p3.

Row 10: k3, p2, k12, p4, k12, p2, k3.

Row 11: p3, *2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, k2, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 12: k38.

Row 13: p3, *k1, 2/1LC, k1, 2/1LC, 2/1RC, k1, 2/1RC, k1, rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 14: k38.

Row 15-60: Repeat Rows 5-14.

Finishing Rows

Row 61: p38.

Row 62: k38.

Row 63: p38.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block well to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 24 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

• Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
• Children: 42″ x 48″
• Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
• Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
• Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note for Bethany Dailey below in the comments! 🙂